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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s top dining spots, one might foresee familiar award-winning establishments. Yet, situated near the top among these food giants is a simple salonu found in a distant corner of north London.

An Surprise Accolade

This small Turkish eatery, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a influential food magazine. The recognition has made the proprietors totally shocked.

“I am utterly shocked,” says a family member, referring to his parents’ relentless work that led to their humble restaurant earning such a high spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

The small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular destination, has retained much of its former feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking show, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” says the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the fare, and this restaurant certainly delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a succulent texture.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. As the savoury mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic called this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, imparting it a richer, more aromatic and more balanced profile.

Outranking the Giants

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, equivalent tasting menus at luxury establishments can run into many times that figure.

A Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to show what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at fancy restaurants. “I am really happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a social life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to resonate beyond its own premises. “In my opinion numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the wider significance of this culinary triumph.